Roof Maintenance
At PABCO® Roofing, we know you probably have a lot of questions about roof maintenance. We've compiled a list of frequently asked questions and provided some answers to help assist you. Preventative maintenance is a key to providing a roof that retains its natural beauty and performance that helps increase your homes overall value. This section will provide some general guidelines to help keep your roof in good working condition for as long as possible.
At PABCO® Roofing, we know you probably have a lot of questions about roof maintenance. We've compiled a list of frequently asked questions and provided some answers to help assist you. Preventative maintenance is a key to providing a roof that retains its natural beauty and performance that helps increase your homes overall value. This section will provide some general guidelines to help keep your roof in good working condition for as long as possible.
Your roof should be periodically inspected for damage. Timely repairs prevent more extensive damage. In addition to damage to the actual shingles, look for damage or deterioration around the flashings. Typically, roof repairs should be performed by roofing professionals.
Your roof needs to be kept free of roof debris. Debris on the roof hinders water shedding and may promote the growth of moss. The need to manually clean a roof depends on the roof slope and potential sources of debris. A shingle roof with a slope near the minimum, located under trees could need to have the roof cleaned several of times a year. A steep sloped roof (something like 12:12 slope), located away from any trees, may never need to have the roof cleaned.
Every time you go onto a roof, safety must be the first priority. Be sure to use all the suitable safe work practices, or let a roofing professional do the work!
Your roof needs to be kept free of roof debris. Debris on the roof hinders water shedding and may promote the growth of moss. The need to manually clean a roof depends on the roof slope and potential sources of debris. A shingle roof with a slope near the minimum, located under trees could need to have the roof cleaned several of times a year. A steep sloped roof (something like 12:12 slope), located away from any trees, may never need to have the roof cleaned.
Every time you go onto a roof, safety must be the first priority. Be sure to use all the suitable safe work practices, or let a roofing professional do the work!
Please note that walking around on a roof can scuff off the granules that protect the asphalt from sunlight. Excessive scuffing will shorten the useful life of the roof.
Debris on the roof hinders water shedding and may promote the growth of moss. The best method for removing loose debris without hurting the shingles is to use a leaf blower. A garden hose is also okay, but the granules on the shingle surface are easier to knock off when they are wet. That shortens the life of the shingles. Pressure washing is not recommended!
The black staining on shingle surfaces is commonly called fungus. It is actually an algae growth. It can be cleaned by gently spraying a solution of chlorine bleach (diluted with an equal amount of water) on the shingle surface. This is even more effective if about 1 tablespoon of TSP is added per gallon of water. (Ask about TSP at a paint store). This solution make s the roof extremely slick! Avoid needing to walk on the sprayed surface. Leave the solution on the roof for at least 15 minutes, then rinse off with a garden hose (do not pressure wash). Also note - this solution will harm many garden plants. Protect any plants that might be hit by the spray or when the roof is hosed off. Extra rinsing where downspouts drain onto the lawn is also helpful.
Every time you go onto a roof, safety must be the first priority. Be sure to use all the suitable safe work practices, or let a roofing professional do the work!
Debris on the roof hinders water shedding and may promote the growth of moss. The best method for removing loose debris without hurting the shingles is to use a leaf blower. A garden hose is also okay, but the granules on the shingle surface are easier to knock off when they are wet. That shortens the life of the shingles. Pressure washing is not recommended!
The black staining on shingle surfaces is commonly called fungus. It is actually an algae growth. It can be cleaned by gently spraying a solution of chlorine bleach (diluted with an equal amount of water) on the shingle surface. This is even more effective if about 1 tablespoon of TSP is added per gallon of water. (Ask about TSP at a paint store). This solution make s the roof extremely slick! Avoid needing to walk on the sprayed surface. Leave the solution on the roof for at least 15 minutes, then rinse off with a garden hose (do not pressure wash). Also note - this solution will harm many garden plants. Protect any plants that might be hit by the spray or when the roof is hosed off. Extra rinsing where downspouts drain onto the lawn is also helpful.
Every time you go onto a roof, safety must be the first priority. Be sure to use all the suitable safe work practices, or let a roofing professional do the work!
First, move or protect anything that will be damaged by the incoming water.
Second, if the space under the roof is easily and safely accessible, try to find where the leak is coming from and get a bucket under it. Finding the leak is often harder than you might think. Water can run sideways along the deck boards and along the rafters.
If it is safe to do so, you may try to repair the roof yourself. If it is not absolutely safe, leave this to a roofing professional! If you think you know where the water is coming in (such as at a sky light or vent pipe), and it is safe, try putting some asphalt roof cement over the leaking area. You may have to try this a couple of times to get the right spot.
PLEASE NOTE: most leaks are not from defective shingles. Damage, incorrect application and problems with flashings (such as around sky lights, vents and valleys) cause a lot more leaks th an bad shingles. They are also usually repairable.
Second, if the space under the roof is easily and safely accessible, try to find where the leak is coming from and get a bucket under it. Finding the leak is often harder than you might think. Water can run sideways along the deck boards and along the rafters.
If it is safe to do so, you may try to repair the roof yourself. If it is not absolutely safe, leave this to a roofing professional! If you think you know where the water is coming in (such as at a sky light or vent pipe), and it is safe, try putting some asphalt roof cement over the leaking area. You may have to try this a couple of times to get the right spot.
PLEASE NOTE: most leaks are not from defective shingles. Damage, incorrect application and problems with flashings (such as around sky lights, vents and valleys) cause a lot more leaks th an bad shingles. They are also usually repairable.
In a perfect world, a roof would be replaced the day before it fails. For your house, it's never quite that simple. You can replace the roof just because you want something different. It's okay to change the color of a house and want a new roof to match.
If the point is to keep your roof the maximum time that let's you sleep confidently during a rain storm, look at your roof every few years. Unless there is something major wrong with the shingles, it doesn't change much from year to year. The normal wear pattern is to gradually have the granule (small, colored rock) surface weather away. Don't judge this from how many granules you find at the downspout, or in the gutter. Judge this by how many granules are still on the shingles. The granular surfacing should be covering the asphalt below it enough that the gray/black of the asphalt is not obvious during visual inspection. You can look from a ladder a t the eave, look from the ground with binoculars or have a professional inspector give it a more complete check-up. Walking on an older roof can damage the shingles needlessly.
Another indication that a roof is near the end of its life is the formation of deep cracks, usually with a strong horizontal or vertical orientation. Water will not pass through a shingle unless the crack goes all the way through. The formation of a light, random surface "spider web" type appearance is not an indication that a roof failure is near. These spider webs can result from several conditions and may never get deep enough to cause a problem. Keep an eye on them to see if they get worse, but you don't need to panic.
Another indication of product weathering may be curling up of the edges or corners of the shingles. A trace of curl (no more than 1/4"), uniformly visual over the roof should be considered normal weathering. Large curls, or curling that is not uniform over the roof mean that there is a prob lem. It may or may not be the shingles, but it will take a roofing professional and/or the manufacturer to know why and if it means the roof needs to be replaced.
If the point is to keep your roof the maximum time that let's you sleep confidently during a rain storm, look at your roof every few years. Unless there is something major wrong with the shingles, it doesn't change much from year to year. The normal wear pattern is to gradually have the granule (small, colored rock) surface weather away. Don't judge this from how many granules you find at the downspout, or in the gutter. Judge this by how many granules are still on the shingles. The granular surfacing should be covering the asphalt below it enough that the gray/black of the asphalt is not obvious during visual inspection. You can look from a ladder a t the eave, look from the ground with binoculars or have a professional inspector give it a more complete check-up. Walking on an older roof can damage the shingles needlessly.
Another indication that a roof is near the end of its life is the formation of deep cracks, usually with a strong horizontal or vertical orientation. Water will not pass through a shingle unless the crack goes all the way through. The formation of a light, random surface "spider web" type appearance is not an indication that a roof failure is near. These spider webs can result from several conditions and may never get deep enough to cause a problem. Keep an eye on them to see if they get worse, but you don't need to panic.
Another indication of product weathering may be curling up of the edges or corners of the shingles. A trace of curl (no more than 1/4"), uniformly visual over the roof should be considered normal weathering. Large curls, or curling that is not uniform over the roof mean that there is a prob lem. It may or may not be the shingles, but it will take a roofing professional and/or the manufacturer to know why and if it means the roof needs to be replaced.
Asphalt shingles are made by applying a coating of asphalt and a surfacing of colored granules over a core material. That core material can be an organic based felt (composed of recycled paper, sometimes with wood fibers added) or it can be a porous mat manufactured from fiberglass. Both products are "asphalt" shingles.
The advantages with a fiberglass mat core are improved fire resistance, lighter weight (the fiberglass is naturally much thinner than a paper based felt) and a longer expected roof life.
The advantages with a fiberglass mat core are improved fire resistance, lighter weight (the fiberglass is naturally much thinner than a paper based felt) and a longer expected roof life.
A reasonable estimate can be made by measuring the ground area covered by the roof, then applying factors for the slope and for additional needed shingles.
The first step is to measure the ground area covered by the roof, including the eave overhang, as feet wide by feet long. If the roof area is not square, it is easier to measure each square area, then add them together at the end.
Next, these areas need to be factored up for the slope of the roof.
The total area, factored up for the slope is then converted to "squares" of roofing. A square is the amount of shingles needed to cover 100 sq ft of surface area. Roofing shingles are typically sold by the square, or by the bundle with a designated number of bundles per square.
The next factor is the extra material to cover hips & ridges and to generate valleys. Horizontal ridge length can be estimated from the ground. For hips, estimate the horizontal length, then multiply by 1 1/2 (use 1 3/4 for slopes over 9:12). One bundle of PABCO® Shadow Cap (specifically made for covering hips & ridges) covers about 20 1/2 ft if applied as a double layer, as recommended by PABCO® for the extra rustic appearance. A bundle covers 41.25 ft with single layer coverage.
Another "additional need" is for the extra, "starter" shinglesat the eaves. Get an extra bundle of 3 tab shi ngles for each 213 ft of eave.
The last additional material need is for valley construction. Estimate the length of the valley by multiplying the horizontal length by 1 1/2 (use 1 3/4 for slopes over 9:12). This length can be used to purchase metal valley linings or additional shingles if the roof is SG-30 or GG-20. (for SG-30 or GG-20, you will need about 1 extra bundle for each 20 feet of valley). Please note that for PABCO® Premier shingles, we direct the use of metal for valleys.
When you have calculated the number of squares to cover the roof, plus the number of extra bundles for eaves and Hips or ridges, you are ready to buy shingles.
Check the return policy where you are getting the shingles. If returns are not a problem, get a couple of extra squares of shingles before starting the job.
The first step is to measure the ground area covered by the roof, including the eave overhang, as feet wide by feet long. If the roof area is not square, it is easier to measure each square area, then add them together at the end.
Next, these areas need to be factored up for the slope of the roof.
For slopes of |
Multiply the area by |
|
4:12 |
1.054 |
|
6:12 |
1.118 |
|
8:12 |
1.202 |
|
10:12 |
1.302 |
|
12:12 |
1.414 |
The total area, factored up for the slope is then converted to "squares" of roofing. A square is the amount of shingles needed to cover 100 sq ft of surface area. Roofing shingles are typically sold by the square, or by the bundle with a designated number of bundles per square.
The next factor is the extra material to cover hips & ridges and to generate valleys. Horizontal ridge length can be estimated from the ground. For hips, estimate the horizontal length, then multiply by 1 1/2 (use 1 3/4 for slopes over 9:12). One bundle of PABCO® Shadow Cap (specifically made for covering hips & ridges) covers about 20 1/2 ft if applied as a double layer, as recommended by PABCO® for the extra rustic appearance. A bundle covers 41.25 ft with single layer coverage.
Another "additional need" is for the extra, "starter" shinglesat the eaves. Get an extra bundle of 3 tab shi ngles for each 213 ft of eave.
The last additional material need is for valley construction. Estimate the length of the valley by multiplying the horizontal length by 1 1/2 (use 1 3/4 for slopes over 9:12). This length can be used to purchase metal valley linings or additional shingles if the roof is SG-30 or GG-20. (for SG-30 or GG-20, you will need about 1 extra bundle for each 20 feet of valley). Please note that for PABCO® Premier shingles, we direct the use of metal for valleys.
When you have calculated the number of squares to cover the roof, plus the number of extra bundles for eaves and Hips or ridges, you are ready to buy shingles.
Check the return policy where you are getting the shingles. If returns are not a problem, get a couple of extra squares of shingles before starting the job.
The slope of the roof is expressed as Rise:Run. A 4:12 roof rises 4 units vertically for each 12 units horizontally. This can be reasonably estimated by holding a ruler or tape measure at arms length while viewing the roof from the ground (from a distance, so that the angle up to the roof is not effecting the apparent ratio).
Ventilation of the space between the interior ceiling and the roof deck provides several benefits. It moves humidity out of this space to reduce or avoid condensation that can rot wood and destroy the effectiveness of insulation. In most cases, it also saves energy by reducing the amount of air conditioning needed in summer weather. In climates where winter temperatures are low (average January temperatures of 25 °F or less), it is also one of the tools to protect your house from damage caused by water infiltration because of ice dams. If snow melts over the attic space, but is still frozen at the overhangs, this is forming an ice dam. Proper ventilation reduces the tendency for ice dams to form.
Building codes require a minimum building ventilation of 1 sq. foot of net free area for every 150 sq. feet of attic floor area for normal construction. New homes that have an effective vapor barrier a nd the venting area split about equally between ridge vents and eave vents are allowed a minimum of 1 sq. foot per 300 sq. feet of attic floor area. PABCO® vigorously supports these code requirements. In most cases, more ventilation is even better.
Building codes require a minimum building ventilation of 1 sq. foot of net free area for every 150 sq. feet of attic floor area for normal construction. New homes that have an effective vapor barrier a nd the venting area split about equally between ridge vents and eave vents are allowed a minimum of 1 sq. foot per 300 sq. feet of attic floor area. PABCO® vigorously supports these code requirements. In most cases, more ventilation is even better.
Flashings are that extra layer of protection found where:
a vent or pipe comes up through the roof.
the roof comes up against a wall (or chimney).
roofs have sky lights.
two roof slopes come together to form a valley.
This is not the place to try saving a little money on your roof. They need to be good quality materials and properly installed.
Most flashings are made from galvanized sheet metal, but copper, lead, plastic and asphalt can be used successfully. All too often, these become the weakest link in the water shedding system. Sometimes the failure is poor installation. Sometimes it is from age or wear of the calking material used with the flashing. Sometimes it is from corrosion of the flashing material. Except for corrosion, it may be difficult to detect the failure (or failure in progress) of the flashing assembly. This is an area where the aid and advice of a roofing professional may be the best solution.
a vent or pipe comes up through the roof.
the roof comes up against a wall (or chimney).
roofs have sky lights.
two roof slopes come together to form a valley.
This is not the place to try saving a little money on your roof. They need to be good quality materials and properly installed.
Most flashings are made from galvanized sheet metal, but copper, lead, plastic and asphalt can be used successfully. All too often, these become the weakest link in the water shedding system. Sometimes the failure is poor installation. Sometimes it is from age or wear of the calking material used with the flashing. Sometimes it is from corrosion of the flashing material. Except for corrosion, it may be difficult to detect the failure (or failure in progress) of the flashing assembly. This is an area where the aid and advice of a roofing professional may be the best solution.